Rotating (Valentine) heart / heart Turning

Let us provide you with a translation of all that.

This is what you're going to make here: a rotating (Valentines) heart, for which you need just a few simple things!

This is what you need to make this:
  • A battery (AA) A strong magnet 
  • A piece of electricity wire 
  • A cutting tool 
  • A wire stripping tool 
  • A copper coin 

Step 1: Carefully ... 

Make a dent in the middle of the battery. Be careful: do this at the 'plus' (+) side of the battery, right in the middle. You can use the sharp end of the cutting tool for this, but take care with this job... (if you're not comfortable in doing this, ask someone else to do it for you).

Step 2: Now we will wire stripping and bending 

Take the wire stripping tool and strip about 20 centimeters (about 8") of electricity wire. With this action you will remove the outer layer of plastic and you will end up with only the copper core. After that, bend this piece right in the middle as shown.

Step 3: Stripper committed to this job

Use the stripping tool to make the fold in the wire as tight as possible.

Step 4: Making Heart Shape

Now you can bend a heart shape of the stripped wire with the stripping tool, giving you the upper part of the heart. Take the battery, put the copper coin underneath and then the small magnet.

Step 5: Then, the bottom

At the height of the coin, you create a round piece of wire. Take care: bend one end of the wire to the front and the other end backwards. Tricky little job this is.
Step 6: Tens Lotte
Now put the heart on the battery. Your heart will automatically start turning, caused by the electro-magnetic field. It is rather important that the heart is in balance, with the two sides having the exact same shape. Look at the differences between the first and second heart, the last one is really well shaped. So bend the two sides as equal as you can! Be sure that the lower part makes contact with the copper coin.

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How to Make a Wi Fi Booster Using Only a Beer Can

Not only is this clever use of a beer can an ultra cheap tech hack, it also means less fiddling around with cardboard and aluminum foil as required by other hack methods. This method has been proven to improve Wi-Fi reception from around 2 bars to about 4 on average, varying between 3 and 5. Give it a go – all you've got to waste is a beer can!

1. Gather the required materials and tools. These are listed below under "Things You'll Need".
2. Clean the beer can. Make sure there is no residue left inside.
3. Take the ring-pull off the can.
4 . Cut the end off the beer can where there's no opening. Do this using the Stanley knife or similar suitable safety knife.
5. Cut around the end with the opening almost all the way. Leave a little bit of metal to keep attached the part that will be the base (see the white line in the illustration).
6. Cut along the middle of the can in a straight line, opposite to the piece of metal attaching the base
7. Being careful, open up the middle piece of metal by bending it until it vaguely resembles the shape of a radar dish.
8. Place the completed Wi-Fi booster on your router. Place it so that the antenna pokes through the opening, and stick the base of the can to the router with a small piece of poster tack or other suitable adhesive. It's time to test how much your Wi-Fi is now boosted!
source by : wikiHow

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Low Cost Jacob's Ladder Made From A Salvaged Oil Transformer

No Mad Scientist or Halloweener's display is complete without a Jacob's Ladder aka the Traveling Electric Arc. These are easy to build, look really cool, and can be very dangerous if you're not careful. Anything like that is my kind of device!

This unit was made at basically zero cost. The transformer was salvaged from an old oil furnace, the power cord was cut off a discarded appliance, and the wires laying around the shop. Have fun and be safe.

Step 1: Safety First - Extreme Electric Shock Hazard!
If you're not 100% comfortable working with electricity, either find someone who is, or get more education before attempting this build. The transformer used here puts out 10,000 volts at 23 milliamps. Most stun guns only put out about 3 milliamps. I don't know exactly what this would do to a person, and I never want to find out.

ALWAYS disconnect the power before working on it, or adjusting anything.
DO NOT touch the terminals or rods when the transformer is energized.
DO NOT put anything conductive (including you) close to the terminals or rods when the transformer is energized.
DO NOT do anything stupid.

Transformers of this type do not vibrate, make noise, light up, or let you know they are energized in any way. Just because there is no arc does not mean the unit is safe. Always check to make sure it's unplugged before handling.

Step 2: I've Got The POWER!
The heart of this project is the high voltage power supply. There are two readily available sources for this neon sign transformers and oil furnace ignition transformers. I use the ignition transformers as they can be had for free or a few dollars. Call your local furnace shop, they may have units that were removed from service that are of no use to them. Transformers that are removed from furnaces can still have enough power for this project. These instructions are based on a furnace transformer. There are other instructables which cover the use of neon transformers, so I won't rehash that info.

Check the data tag to determine the output voltage. You need at least 10,000 volts. More is better. This tag shows that the transformer runs on 120 volts and puts out 10,000 volts, which is sufficient for our project.

Step 3: Power Connections
There should be two wires coming out of the transformer. These are the lines that will be connected to the 120 V line. It doesn't matter which one is hot or neutral. Connections can be made with crimp connectors, solder, or wire nuts.

Step 4: High Voltage Connections
The high voltage terminals are usually a threaded stud or a smooth post. If it's a threaded stud, it will be easier to connect the wire. For the wires, you want something that's stiff enough to stand up on it's own and not flop around, but still be able to bend it into shapes.

TIG welding rod, thin brass rod, or even a wire coat hanger will work for this. Really, any conductive material will work. If using a coat hanger, it can't have any paint or coating on it. A plastic coat hanger won't work for this. If you didn't know that, maybe you shouldn't be playing with electricity.

Step 5:
Bend a small loop in one end of the wire, big enough to fit over the stud. Bend a right angle app. halfway between the terminals. You need a slight gap, the wires can't touch. About a 1/4 Repeat for the opposite side. The distance between the wires at the bottom will be determined by the voltage. Higher voltage allows the wires to be further apart. The wires diverge at a slight angle as they go up. The distance and angles will need to be adjusted to get it to run correctly. When it s running, it looks like one arc running up. In the pictures, you can see multiple arcs because the shutter was open for 1/8 of a second. Since this is alternating current, the arc should be jumping 60 times per second, unless your local power is at 50Hz, in which case the arc will jump 50 times per second.

Step 6: 
Stand back and energize the transformer. IF everything is set up properly, an arc will jump across the bottom and travel up the wires. If no arc is present, the bottom is too far apart. If the arc jumps across, but doesn't travel, the wires are too close at the bottom, or the wires do not diverge enough as they go up. ALWAYS disconnect the transformer from the power source (i.e. unplug it) before making any adjustments.

In this example, a piece of electrical tape holds the tops of the wires at a set distance. This isn't necessary, but it keeps the wires from bouncing around. I don't know why, but as it runs, the wires will start moving. Maybe it's some sort of induced magnetism or something.

Step 7: Gee Mr. Wizard, Why Does It Do That?

Well, I'm glad you asked. Electricity follows the path of least resistance, which is why it starts at the bottom where the wires are closest. The arc is very hot, so it heats the air above it, make it more conductive. The arc moves up to that more conductive area, heating the air above that. It does this continuously until it gets to the point where the arc to just too long. At this point, it starts over at the bottom.

If you're going to have this on display, you should build an enclosure to keep people from touching it. I didn't go into how to build an enclosure, you can figure that out yourself and write your own instructable about it.

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Ultrabright LED Emergency Lamp (Rechargeable!)

Preparing for a calamity or go camping? Make an ultrabright emergency light in just minutes! Best part is: it glows a 360° and completly WATERPROOF!. In addition the jar's lid can be detached from the jar turning it into a compact flashlight! This is a simple project that uses a 3W LED and a BL-5C (Li-ion) Nokia battery. Macgyver Style!

It's completely rechargeable, via USB or wallwart (5v), only takes an hour to fully charge the lamp. If you remember my previous project: "DIY Portable USB Solar Charger", you can charge the jar using a solar panel. Free renewable energy! The goal is to make this project as simple as you can.

Top 10 Practical Uses:

1st.) Portable Emergency Light
2nd.) Camping Light/ Lamp
3rd.) Swimming Pool Floating Lights!
4th.) Nightlight (Sidetable Lamp)
5th.) Constant Camera Flash (Light)
6th.) Waterproof Rescue Lights!
7th.) Solar Powered LED Lamp
8th.) Garden Props & Ornaments
9th.) Replacements for gas lamps
10th.) Halloween Lights (Modded Version)

Real Life Scenario (my experience):

(11/8/13) - A Category 4 typhoon has entered the Philippine area of responsibility. Codenamed: Yolanda
(11/8/13) - President Noynoy declared a state of calamity, told to brace ourselves. (11/8/13) - My parents told me to charge all our lamps, unfortunately 2 out 4 emergency lamps are broken.
(11/8/13) - I made a simple "Jar Emergency Light" in just 5 minutes!
(11/9/13) - Typhoon reached our area, extreme rain and winds.
(11/9/13) - 1:00am The Blackout Started, my 1st time to use the LED Jar :D

Step 1: Gathering Tools & Materials

Since this was a "Macgyver" type of assembly, the parts needed to come from recycled parts. Most of them came from my scrap radio on the other hand my 3W LED came from an old 220v LED Bulb.

Materials: - 3W Ultrabright LED (Radioshack or AC LED Bulbs) - Red LED Indicator (Recycled Parts) - BL-5C Nokia Battery (Old Nokia Phone) - 1N4007 Recitifer Diode (Recycled Parts) - 470 ohm Resistor (Radioshack or Recycled Parts) - On/ Off switch (Recycled Parts) - DC Power Jack (Recycled Parts) - Scotch Mounting Strips

Tools & Equipment: - Soldering Iron - Hot Glue Gun - Leatherman - Portable Drill

Step 2: Hot Glue The Parts In Place

1st.) Drill two holes (6mm) for your "Charger's Plug" and for the "Slider Switch" 2nd.) Solder two wires to your BL-5C's positive and negative terminals. 3rd.) Hot glue everything In place! 4th.) Use a small strip of Scotch's mounting pads to mount the 3W LED (BTW, they don't melt)

Want To Make It Waterproof? 

Don't drill holes, just hot glue the socket and switch inside the jar/ lid. Just unscrew the lid to charge!

Step 3: Optional: Adding a USB Lithium USB Charger

When you charge your lamp, trickle charging isn't the best way to charge lithium batteries. When overcharged, they have the tendency to explode. If you plan to use this in long terms, it's ideal to attach this module for safety.

You can buy it here for $1.70! "1A Lithium Battery Charging Module - Blue"

Step 4: The Schematic Diagram

One thing you must know BL-5C batteries, they have a voltage protection circuit inside them. You can trickle charge these batteries at 5 volts, just limit the charge time for an hour. If you want to take precaution, there are Lithium battery chargers available out there.

How Does The Circuit Work? 

This is a very simple circuit that doesn't require circuit boards. All it does is trickle charge the battery, a rectifier diode was added to prevent the backflow of current. I added a LED charging indicator just to show whether the jar is charging or not.

Step 5: Solder Everything In Place

Just follow the circuit diagram and you are good to go! A perf board isn't necessary but if you insist then go ahead.

Step 6: Charge Testing

Cool! If you've done it right, the jar should glow red when the charging. You can also charge this with my previous project: the "DIY Portable USB Solar Charger".

Step 7: You're Done!

How about let's go camping!

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2x15w stereo power amplifier circuits based TDA1521

It is small and compact stereo amplifier is powerful but can easily be used to replace your broken amplifier or new construction, or to make an active speaker, in all cases combined with a preamplifier. With remarkable features make it the true Hi-Fi amplifier. Using only active component (the right and left channel) Philips TDA1521 monolithic integrated circuit, which contains a double line-end audio amplifier completely independent, each capable of providing from 10 to 12 W to the load 8 ohm or 15 W into 4 ohms (30 W music). Voltage gains of the amplifier is fixed at 30 dB.


- Power supply: 12 V symmetrical dual voltage
- Maximum Power Output RMS: 2 x 15W / 4 ohms, 2 x 10 W / 8 ohms
- Maximum power output music: 2 x 30 W / 4 ohms
- Harmonic Distortion: 0.007% (1 W / 1 kHz)
- Input sensitivity: 300 mV / 20 kOhms
- Frequency: 7 Hz to 60 kHz (-3 dB)
- 70 dB for each channel
- Output power (R = 8 ohms): 2 x 10 W RMS
- Output power (R = 4 ohms): 2 x 15 W RMS
- Bandwidth (-3 dB): 7 to 60 000 Hz
- Sensitivity to maximum power (8 ohms): 290 mVrms
- Sensitivity to maximum power (4 ohms): 250 mVrms
- Input impedance: 20 kilohms
- S / N Ratio: 98 dB
- Crosstalk: -70 dB
- High quality stereo amplifier
- Low noise
- Protection against overload
Parts list :
R1 …. 8.2 Ω 1/4 W
R2 …. 8.2 Ω 1/4 W
C1 …. 22 nF ceramic
C2 …. 22 nF ceramic
C3 …. 100 nF multilayer
C4 …. 1 uF 63 V Polyester
C5 …. 1 uF 63 V Polyester
C6 …. 4700 uF 25 V electrolytic
C7 …. 4700 uF 25 V electrolytic
D1 …. 1N5404
D2 …. 1N5404
D3 …. 1N5404
D4 …. 1N5404
U1 …. TDA1521
Miscellaneous :
1 …… heatsink (Rth less than 3.3 ° C / W)
2 …… 3MA bolts 12 mm Unless otherwise specified, all
resistors are 1/4 W 5 %

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Halloween ညမွာ Ultraviolet LED (UV LED) နဲ႔ ဖန္တီး ေပ်ာ္႐ႊင္ရေအာင္

Glowing spirits aside, this project can be described in a single line: "A 9-volt battery powering a pulsating circuit that drives a UV LED to illuminate fluorescent-dyed water in a spray-painted mason jar."

Circuit components:
• 3cm x 7cm double-sided blank PCB [USD12 for 20pcs from eBay]
• 0.5W 30000mcd 8mm 5-chip straw hat UV LED [USD34 for 50pcs from eBay]
• Resistors 2.2kΩ 1/4W, 4.1Ω 1/4W, 100Ω 1/2W
• Capacitor 1.5mF 10V
• BC337 transistor
• 555-timer IC
• DIP8 IC socket
• N/O reed switch
• Strong rare-earth magnet
• 9V battery connector
• 9V battery
• Wires & soldering kit

Other materials:
• Wildfire’s Luminescent Water Dyes [USD28 for 5 0.2oz bottles from]
• Frosted glass spray [from Home Depot]
• Gold spray paint [from Home Depot]
• Wide-mouth mason jar with 3-1/8" opening
• Ziploc freezer bag

With that long parts list, what you end up with is an innocent looking jar filled with a coloured liquid. No circuit or battery is visible since the liquid filling all the way to the top, along with the frosted glass coating, appear as opaque and completely hide the illuminating assembly. Since the jar is sealed, the on/off switch is our small rare-earth magnet, which you place on the metallic lid to get the spirits glowing. The fluorescing colour differs from the natural colour of the dyed water, so a beautiful gradient is formed when the jars glow.

I have yet to run out of battery on any of these. According to the math, a 9V battery would last about 5 hours, and it can be easily replaced. You can complete one of these jars in a day or two. However, some parts are easier purchased in bulk, so you may as well build a big family with all the different colours ;)

Step 1: Spray painting

Coat the outside of the glass part of each mason jar with the frosted glass spray. Wait for it to dry and apply at least another layer to ensure the surface is fully covered.

Fully cover the lids and the outside of the jar bottoms with the gold spray paint. Lightly spray patches of gold scattered around other glass surfaces as well. The gold-patches-on-frosted-glass effect makes the jars look great in daylight.

Let the jars sit for at least a day before any contact with water. You may spend the rest of the day building the circuit ;)
This is by far the most difficult step where you will build the heart of the glowing spirits. It is recommended that you try out the circuit on a breadboard if possible.

The circuit basically relies on the 555-timer to generate a periodic heartbeat, along with the BC337 transistor, control the amount of current flowing through the UV LED. The UV LED in turn goes from half brightness to full brightness, and then back to half brightness again, and so on. The resistors and capacitor values are chosen more or less by trial and error to provide the frequency and brightness that make the jars comfortable for viewing.

The layout of the circuit is important because it must be compact enough to be hidden in the mouth of the mason jars. The picture showing the bottom traces is drawn as if you are looking through the PCB from the top. When you actually make the traces at the bottom of the PCB, they will be inverted from the drawing, as shown in the last picture. Note that all circuit components are on one side of the PCB, except for the reed switch, which is on the same side with the traces.

The easiest way for me is to solder in all the components you see in the Top view, then flip the PCB over to form the traces by bridging adjacent solder points with solder. The second part may take some practice if you haven't done it before, but it will become much easier once you get used to it. Lastly, attach the reed switch at the back, and solder in the 9V battery connector.

At some point you will need to trim the PCB as shown in the pictures, so it will fit in the mouth of the mason jar. Normal scissors will do, no special tools needed. You can do this now or later.

Take a rare-earth magnet and move it near the reed switch to turn on the circuit. The UV LED should turn on immediately, and start pulsing at a soothing frequency. The effect may be more noticeable with the lights off. If there is no pulsating effect, check the circuit connections.

If everything goes well, start mass producing the assembly for the number of jars you plan to make. If you plan on making a big family of jars, it may be worthwhile to adopt a pattern transfer + etching-based technique to fabricate custom PCBs.

Whichever way you create these circuits, make sure you test each one before proceeding.

The water dyes are not toxic, but they do stain, so make sure they don't get onto your white surfaces!

Fill a mason jar with water almost all the way to the top as shown. Pick a colour of dye and put in 10 drops regardless of the size of your mason jar. When illuminated with UV light, the colour of fluorescence is not the same colour as what you see in daylight. For example, the jar that appears white in the photo will fluoresce in blue! So read the label to pick your colour.

Cut out a piece from the Ziploc freezer bag larger enough to cover the mason jar opening plus some extra on each side.

Trim your PCB such that the assembly fits inside the opening as shown, with the UV LED facing downward and reed switch upward, the trimmed PCB and 9V battery side-by-side with each other.

Press down such that the assembly is fully inside the mouth of the jar. Make sure there is still plenty of extra plastic sheet on each side, protecting the circuit from the overflowing water.

Place the lid on top without pinching the wires. Ensure that the lid presses on the plastic sheet all around and that there is extra plastic everywhere along the edge. Screw the lid down, then use a knife to cut any extra plastic sheet sticking out.

Place the rare-earth magnet on the lid directly above the reed switch and watch the spirits glow!

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